First of all, surfing is a state of mind. No surf board required! It's about living in the "now", maintaining your balance amidst change, and doing so with style.
Surfing may be the closest humans ever get to flying. When you feel the wave take your board, you pop up, and glide down the face of that wave, it's like floating on a magic carpet. You feel the wind, salty spray....the ease of it all.....an incredible freedom. As you paddle in at the end of a session–exhausted but happy–you're not thinking about your job, your bills, or that sticky situation with your colleague or significant other. You're daydreaming about a trip, or a business you want to start, or simply the wicked dinner you'll whip up, tonight!
Surfing helped me find my nirvana. I hope my own story of self-discovery and reinvention--and those of the fine, fierce, fabulous femmes I found along the way--will inspire you to live your own life more fully, and collaborate with others to build a world of blissful harmony.